Women need to know all about the types, designs and history of Banarasi sarees which are famous in Banaras. Some important tips in this article will definitely help you before buying an authentic Banarasi saree.
Banarasi sarees are made from finely woven Ati Talam silk, and are beautifully embroidered using zari. The city of Varanasi is also known for its Pink Minakari.
The city of Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh is called Banaras or Kashi. Kashi is a religiously important place in India. Also, this place is famous for India’s most precious handloom sarees.
These sarees are made on handloom. The artisans hand weave these sarees with beautiful silk and zari. In 2009 by weavers’ associations in Uttar Pradesh “Varanas Brocade and Sarees” Geographical Indication (GI) rights have been obtained for this. Let’s see the complete information about Banarasi silk saree.
History of Banarasi Silk Saree | History of Banarasi Silk Saree .
Banarasi sarees are made in Varanasi, a city in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. This saree is called as Banarasi saree or Varanasi saree, also the history of this saree is very ancient. Varanasi is a very ancient city, this city is very famous for Banarasi saree along with its temples. Benares is mentioned by Shuffle Fitch (1583-91) as a flourishing area of cotton textile industry.
This art developed during the Mughal period around the fourteenth century. Mughal inspired designs have been used on this saree. For example carvings of intertwined flowers and leaves, kalaga and vines. This saree is woven in this way with a straight leaf wire called Zalar on the outside.
During the 1603 drought in Gujarat, silk weavers migrated to Benares. Then silk brocade weaving started in 17th century. In the 18th and 19th centuries, the weaving of this saree developed brilliantly.
Features of Banarasi Saree | Features of Banarasi saree
- Banarasi silk sarees are especially famous for gold-silver, brocade or zari, finest types of silk and embroidery work on them.
- These sarees are made from genuine silk and the zari weave on them makes these sarees very expensive.
- Weavers in Banaras use traditional machines to make these sarees.
- It takes 15 days to 1 month to make this saree by hand.
- If the embroidery, craftsmanship on the saree is more then it takes more time to make the saree, some sarees even take 6 months to 1 year to make.
- Banarasi silk sarees are given special importance for wedding ceremonies and pujas. At the same time, the bride also gives special preference to this saree for marriage.
- The embroidery and use of zari on this saree gives it weight.
- Other features on this saree are gold work on it, compact weave, figures with small details, metallic visual effects, water and meena work.
- Various brands have emerged to provide a suitable platform to this saree industry and reach the consumers, including HKV Benaras, Ekaya, Tilfi Benaras.
- Chemical dyes are used for silk dyeing which pollutes the water of river Ganga, hence the emphasis is on the production and use of natural dyes.
- Natural dyes have been developed by a research team from IIT – Indian Institute of Technology, and BHU – Banaras Hindu University. These colors are made from flowers and fruits, which does not cause any kind of pollution.
Varieties of Banarasi Silk Sarees and designs on them | Types of Pure Banarasi Silk Sarees
- Katan Banarasi Saree | Katan Banarasi Sarees : Katan is a simple silk thread, pure silk threads are twisted in these threads. These threads are then woven into silk sarees. Earlier katan sarees were made by hand back but with changing times and increasing demand these sarees are now made on loom, the fabric of this saree is very soft and fine.
- Shattir Banarasi Sarees | Shattir Banarasi Sarees : Shattir is a great fabric for modern style sarees. This fabric is very good for creating different embroideries in Banarasi name.
- Georgette Banarasi Saree | Georgette Banarasi Sarees : This fabric is made from crepe yarn. Georgette is a finely woven very light fabric. This fabric is more popular in modern types of sarees due to its lightweight and beautiful appearance.
- Jal or Jungle Banarasi Saree | Jangla Banarasi Sarees : As the name itself suggests, this type has a net weave. In this, flowers, leaves, human figures, birds, animals etc. are woven in. All these design patterns are created in a specific pattern around the butti by forming a butti.
- Tanchoi Banarasi Saree | Tanchoi Banarasi Sarees : Tanchoi This type is very popular for weddings. This saree is woven in jamawar style paisley or zari. The pallu of this saree is embellished with fine paisley work, the artisans of Banaras create this saree from colorful silk threads. Criss-cross embroidery is done on the border of this saree.
- Cutwork Banarasi Saree | Cutwork Banarasi Sarees : This saree is not very expensive and is made in cutwork style. This saree is made by combining cotton threads with silk threads. The basic feature of this type of sarees is the embroidery of jasmine, marigold flowers, vines, leaves, making this saree very popular.
- Tissue Banarasi Saree | Tissu Banarasi Sarees : Tissu sarees are made by combining zari and silk. Golden Jari is woven in this saree so delicately that it gives a nice sheen to the saree. The border and pallu of this saree is woven with paisley. One of the most popular carvings is a golden zari woven lotus floating in a bright pool. And water drops are created with cutwork technique.
- Buttidar Banarasi Saree | Buttidar Banarasi Sarees : In this type of saree, butti is made with gold, silver and silk threads. Sarees with butti are probably the most popular. Butti in gold zari looks much darker in shade than silver zari, hence the weavers of Banaras call this type of brocade Ganga-Jamuna. Patti Butti, Resheem Butti, Jari Butti, Angoor Vel, Ashrafi Butti, Latika Butti, Baluchar Butti are all popular among them.
- Jamdani Banarasi Saree | Jamdani Banarasi Sarees : Jamdani sarees are also known as Dhakai sarees. A typical saree is made of silk with cotton and rarely zari threads. The saree is hand crafted with beautiful floral motifs, including designs of leaves, marigolds, jasmine etc.
Also Read :- Check out 10 most used colors of Banarasi sarees
Banarasi Saree Motif Work Type With Name
- Well | Bel : It involves weaving vines, flowers and leaves all over the saree. Sometimes butti is also woven between these vines thus creating a patti like embroidery in the saree. Carvings of flowers, animals, birds and humans are also created.
- fringe | Jhalar : Parrot, Peacock, Kairi, Veal, Three Leaves, Five Leaves are woven in the Jhalar pattern. The embroidery which starts after the border of the saree is called Zalar. Preferably its color should match the border.
- Angiya | Koniya : It is a traditional art form. Its shape is like a mango (kuiri). It is woven from three types of nets. In this a special way is done in one corner of the layer. That type is called Kuniya. Koneya is made only in cloths in which gold or silver threads are used. Kuniyas do not use silk threads for making, as silk threads do not show the floral and leaf embroidery.
- butta | Butta : Above this butti weave is made in larger size called butta. These can be flowers, fruits, or trees, shrubs. The use of all these makes the Buttya embroidery attractive. Butta is made from a combination of golden, silver or silk threads.
- Butti | Butti : The small weaving done on the saree is called Butti. These butti are in gold or silver zari. Or make these in silk threads.
- Shikargad | Shikargadh : In Shikargadh type we can see embroidery of hunting scenes, animals, birds, leaves, vines etc. on sarees.
How to recognize a pure Banarasi saree | How to Identify Pure Banarasi Saree
- If you want to check the authenticity of a pure Banarasi saree, always check the reverse side of the saree. Handloom sarees always float in the warp and weft grid. Also the sarees which are machine made have a very soft finish.
- A pure Banarasi saree will have a silk mark, indicating that it is made from pure silk. So first of all check the pure silk mark on the saree. These silk marks are only available to pure silk saree makers.
- Banarasi sarees are known for their intricate zari work. Look for fine and detailed weaving in saree designs. Zari work is usually made of pure gold or silver threads.
- Banarasi sarees are heavy because they are made of pure silk and zari work. A pure Banarasi saree can weigh around 1-1.5 kg.
- A pure Banarasi saree is expensive because of the quality of the silk and the intricate zari work. If you come across a Banarasi saree at a low price, you must understand that it is definitely not a pure Banarasi saree.
- Banarasi sarees are made in different weaves like katan, organza and georgette.
- Banarasi sarees are known for their traditional designs such as paisley, floral motifs and intricate embroidery inspired by Mughal art. If a saree has modern designs or prints, it cannot be a pure Banarasi saree.
By keeping these points in mind, you can identify a pure Banarasi saree.
How to take care of Banarasi saree? | How to take care of Banarasi saree ?
Here are some tips to care for Banarasi sarees:
- Banarasi sarees should always be dry cleaned to avoid damaging the delicate silk threads. Do not try to wash them at home.
- When the saree is not in use, store your Banarasi saree in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Do not hang the saree as this can stretch the fabric.
- While wearing the Banarasi saree, be careful not to get it caught on sharp objects or jewellery. Avoid wearing sharp or pointy jewelery which can damage the saree.
- If your Banarasi saree has wrinkles, iron it on low heat. Avoid ironing on high heat as this can damage the silk fibers.
- If your Banarasi saree gets stained, take it to a professional dry cleaner as soon as possible. Do not attempt to remove the stain at home as this may cause further damage.
By following these tips, your Banarasi saree will remain in excellent condition for years to come.
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