Types, History and Characteristics of Assam Silk Saree or Muga Silk Saree

Assam silk saree is very popular not only in India but all over the world due to its beauty. The state of Assam has been famous since ancient times for the production of high quality silk. Assam saree is also known locally as Mekhela Chadar . Assam silk sarees are produced in large quantities at Sulkuchi in Assam. The artisans of this place are very skilled in these weavings.

This region produces the largest amount of silk in India. That is why this area is called the silk heaven of India. There are three major types of wild silk production in the state of Assam. It includes three varieties namely Golden Muga , White Pat and Iri Silk . Muga silk and Iri silk are the major producers of this region. This silk is also popular as Vanya silk. To Assam State in 2007 for production of Muga Silk A Geographical Indication (GI) tag has been obtained.

History of Assam Silk Saree | History of Assam Silk Sarees

The city of Sulkuchi is situated on the banks of the river Brahmaputra. This city is 30 km west of Guwahati. The main occupation of the people of this village is weaving. That’s why everyone here has a handloom in their house. Assam silk is also mentioned in mythology. Silk production is the rural occupation of the people here.

Banabhatt’s historical record describes the Silk Road as reaching Assam through China, Tibet and Burma. The knowledge of sericulture has reached Assam from China. During the reigns of different kings, the silk industry has received royal patronage.

Assam silk is mentioned in Arthashastra written by Kautilya during the reign of Emperor Chandragupta Maurya. It states that Assam silk is said to be “the color of butter”, “red like the sun” and “of the highest quality”.

During the Ahom rule of Assam (1228-1826) Muga silk production received great patronage. Earlier during the reign of the kings, gold thread was used in weaving. After that, weaving began to be commercialized and cotton threads were used in silk.

Features of Assam Silk Saree | Characteristics of Assam Silk Sarees

Assam silk sarees are woven on handlooms. Artisans create embroidery and patterns on this saree with their own hands. Assam sarees are handloomed with exquisite embroidery. This saree is made from high quality silk threads. Also, as this saree gets older, its shine increases.

The characteristic of Assam silk is that the older the fabric is, the more shine it gets.As you wash this fabric, it becomes very durable and its shine increases even more. Tussar silk garments get warmer as they age.

Muga means yellowish in local language. Muga silk is also known as golden silk. It goes without saying that Muga silk is nature’s gift to the state of Assam.

Any wedding ceremony in Assam is incomplete without this saree. These sarees are given great importance in various events. In earlier times, having weaving skills was a marriage requisite for Kumarika girls.

Assam Muga Silk has been granted a (GI) logo for trademark purposes in 2014. This logo is registered with ASTEC (Assam Science Technology and Environment Council).

Varieties of Assam Silk | Types of Assam Silk

• Muga silk
• White pat silk
• Erie Silk

Types of Assam Silk Sarees | Types of Assam silk Sarees

• Mehla Chadar – Mekhela Chadar is a traditional dress of Assamese women. Assam silk saree is also known as Mekhla Chadar or Roha Mekhla. The lower part is called mekhla and is worn as a skirt. And the upper garment is called chadar. The red weave on the lower part of it is very attractive. The border of the mekhla is beautifully embroidered. This saree is also called Mekhala half saree.
• Pat Silk Saree – Pat silk, also known as Assam silk or Muga silk. It is usually white or off-white colored silk. This silk is dried in shade. These silks are produced by Bombay Tester Silk. These insects feed on mulberry leaves. A saree made from this silk is very light, soft, warm and durable.
• Muga Silk Saree – Muga silk is a natural gift of Assam. This silk can be hand washed and the luster of Muga silk increases after each wash. These silk threads are so durable that they outlast humans. This silk is specially known for its natural golden color and luster. Hence, the Muga silk saree has a natural and beautiful sheen. That’s why this saree is so precious.
• Ari Silk Saree – This silk is produced by Samia Cynthia ricini. These insects feed on the leaves of the castor oil plant. It is also known as castor silk. This silk is also called non-violent silk. Eri silk sarees have less luster than Muga silk sarees. Eri silk is soft and warm and shawls are also made from it.
• Assam Cotton Sarees – Also known for Assam cotton sarees, these cotton sarees are perfect for everyday use. And these sarees are also decorated with beautiful traditional embroidery.
• Gamosa Saree – Although the Gamosa saree is not a traditional saree, the Gamosa is a part of Assamese culture. It is used as a scarf. Traditional weaving is done on top of this.

Assam Silk Saree Weaving Method | Assam Silk Saree Weaving Method

Before making the Assam silk saree, the type of embroidery is done on the graph paper, then the cardboard is punched and the embroidery is done on the cardboard. These cardboards are then set on top of the machine. And we meet by creating the embroidery as we want.

Assam silk saree has many types of embroideries. The embroideries on these sarees are probably nature inspired. Along with flowers on the Assam silk saree, we also get to see animal embroideries like peacock, fish, deer, rhinoceros etc. Also sometimes religious carvings are also seen.

Usually these sarees are white, red and black, but sometimes green, blue and orange are also seen.

Handlooms are found in every household in Assam. Every woman here weaves traditional clothes whenever she gets time after finishing her household work.

Along with silk, cotton is also used to make these silk sarees. The weaving of the artisans in Assam is very skillful and wonderful. Whether this weave is on silk fabric or cotton fabric, it looks very beautiful.

Muga Silk Saree Price | Muga Silk Saree price

In Assam muga silk, the starting price starts from 11000 then as the weaving and embroidery increases in these sarees, the price of these sarees becomes more or less.

How to identify a pure Assam silk saree? | How to Identify pure Assam Silk Saree?

We also come across artificial i.e. machine made Assam silk sarees in the market, and that can fool us. That is why it is important to keep a few things in mind while buying pure Assam sarees.

• Before buying a saree check the (GI) mark of the saree. There is only one important tip to identify a pure Assam silk saree and that is the government label on these sarees. And only genuine Assam silk sarees have this label. Artificial sarees do not have such government labels.
• Genuine Assam silk sarees are always accompanied by laboratory test reports. To avoid being cheated, these sarees should preferably be purchased from known artisans.

How to take care of Assam Silk Saree? | How To Care For Assam Silk Saree?

• Assam silk sarees are dyed with natural dyes. Therefore, they should be drycleaned if possible.
• These sarees should be changed from time to time.
• Erie Silk works even with a light wash in shampoo water.

Assam Silk Saree Top Jewelery | Jewelery on Assam silk Saree

• We can wear different types of jewelry on Assam silk saree.
• These include beautiful necklaces that we can wear over saree – Satsori, Golpata, Gejera, Dhol Biri, Jun Biri, Polmoni, Silikha Mon, Doog Doogi, Biri Moni, Mukuta Moni.
• Also we can wear beautiful earrings on it including – Lokaparo, Keru, Sona or Makori, Long Keru, Thuria, Jungfai.